Temples and tourism update -  August 2008
Work in progress on the restorations is continuous;  this guide concentrates on the temple restorations and any access restrictions. If its not mentioned, there is no significant work in progress.
 

Angkor Temples
Angkor Wat

The work on the Western Causeway; has been going on for many years. It  is nearing completion, with ¾ of the paving now complete. Works are going on in the Central area of the third (top level) of Angkor Wat; this includes the central tower. New stairs have been constructed to allow safer access; but the area is not yet open to the public.

The famed Churning of The Ocean of Milk gallery of bas reliefs are being renovated to prevent water damage. This work will be continuing until 2010, with most of the reliefs still viewable. A large display board shows an impressive photomontage of the reliefs.

Angkor Wat  Night Lighting Tour from 7:30 to 9:30pm

The whole site is lit including the bas relief's,  Tripods are provided at strategic locations; but if you have a heavy camera is best to take your own tripod.

There is a separate $15 Admission fee (The Angkor Pass does not cover this)  The tickets for entry have to be bought in advance at the  Ticket  offices on eastern road 60 to Angkor Wat north of the Apsara Roundabout. (Tickets cannot be obtained  at the main entrance to Angkor or at the Temple)

Phnom Bakheng Hill

The latest development on Angkor is the changes that are happening at Phnom Bakheng. This 10^th Century Hill temple has been a favoured sunset spot for the many thousands of tourists that visit Angkor every year. Its popularity is now becoming a problem.  An average of 3000 visitors per day walk up the steep paths to watch the Sunset.  This overcrowding is causing erosion and wear on the stones of the temple.

The steep steps to the upper level are a hazard especially when visitors are trying to descend. The main eastern staircase was closed off in 2003/04 after it became dangerous at nightfall. A panoramic path was constructed to give better and safer access. With the increase in visitors to Angkor; something really needed to be done to improve safety and reduce damage to the oldest monument at the Angkor Park.

A new sign at the base of the hill outlines new access rules which affect all visitors while work is being carried out. Up to 4pm the public have access to the main parts of the site with a few minor restrictions. From 4 pm all public access is banned from the top level.

This will certainly reduce pressure on this site; however the best alternatives: Phnom Krom  and Pre Rup, need careful management  if they are not to suffer similar overcrowding.
 
Angkor Thom
There is no major work other than normal maintenance and tree  management.   
 
Bayon
Major work is going on to the outer galleries to the south east library; most of the rest of site is clear of scaffolding at present.
 
Baphuon This incredible construction site is now opening up to the public with access to the causeway and outer areas. There is limited access to the first  level to see in detail the work that is in progress.
One can see very clearly the results of 30 years work; which commenced on the 1960s. After the interruption  by the Khmer Rouge; work re-commenced in the 1990s, The daunting task of piecing together the giant 3D puzzle, without the master plan, began. The Baphuon is taking shape slowly and maybe in 5 years this spectacular domed temple will be seen in its full glory.
 
Chao Say Thevoda
Several years of Restoration work has been ,mostly completed in giving  much greater access since mid 2007 on this small temple which is  paired with Thommanon.
 
Ta Prohm
Huge numbers of visitors, major restoration work, new wooden walkways have taken away much of the Jungle Temple atmosphere. The Indian Government are working on the site to make it safer for the hundreds of thousands that visit it. This means that some parts of the site are off limits while work is done.   Work is nearly  complete on the  Western Gopura and terrace which most people see at first. Much of the interior is clear of work.

The spectacular tree formation that looks like a giants leg; formed by a strangler fig over a  dead tree has now been cordoned off as the host tree has deteriorated with possible safety risk. Visitors can still see it; but at a safe distance

Preah Khan (Angkor)
After the completion of restoration and repairs in 2005 it looks wonderful! There have been a few tree casualties due to safety reasons. One of the 2 spectacular trees at the East Gopura had to be cut down in 2005; and a very tall sponge tree was removed earlier on 2006 ; because if was in danger of bringing down the stone structure that supported it. Preah Khan still remains a stunning place with the best atmosphere of all the major sites.
 
Preah Neak Pean;

This small temple has water features which dry up in most of the year; so if you want to see it at its best; October  through November has most water.
 

Top of page

Tonle Sap Lake

Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary (Season from December to Mid April) the Sanctuary closes from Khmer New Year and will not reopen until November 2008
 
Ang Trapang Thmor Bird Sanctuary (Season from December to end of April)
This  vast reservoir and surrounding area is the dry season home of the extremely rare Sarus Crane; which can be seen in their hundreds between January  and May.

TIP: Best time to visit is between February and early May !

Kompong Phluk
This small lake village moves out into to temporary stilt houses constructed for the fishing season.  They are a fascinating sight and the fishing activity going on makes it a worthwhile trip. water levels are rising (Aug) so boat access is good; however the road vie Roluos is not passable due to flooding; but motos can get you to where the boats dock (you may have to get off and paddle for a short distance)

Kompong Khleang
This lake village is always interesting; gets few visitors and in the dry season it is spectacular . Road links have improved with a new  tarmac causeway to a bridge a few Kms north of the land village. For much of the year you will need to get a boat to village and lake. From June; it is only possible to get there by boat.

Moat Khla is a remote floating village SE of Kompong Khleang it is rarely visited. The best option is to get a boat from Kompong Khleang( over two hours  each way).
 

Top of page

Other Sites of general interest
 
Land Mine Centre  run by Aki Ra, closed for relocation at the end of April 2007 It has reopened in a new building on the road to Banteay Srey approx 20kms from Siem Reap.
 
The Angkor Museum is now open.  This impressive new building is  be a showcase for many of the ancient artefacts that have been languishing in the Angkor Conservation Depot.  Work is still going on; with many  of the artefacts not in place yet or unlabeled.

The admission is  $12 for foreigners $3 for Khmer

Temples Outside of the Angkor Park  
 
Banteay Srey: The temple  is in fine condition since its restoration in 2005. Its also very busy with hundreds of visitors coming in be the busload. It is best seen before 8:30 when the tour buses start arriving.

Kbal Spean
The Main changes here are  new WCs which are of a very high standard. several new rest shelters on path which is now marked with big signs stating the distance every hundred metres.
The stolen Vishnu figure that caused such disfigurement to the sacred site in 2003 was  replaced with a splendid new one in September.06  The river and cascades are in full flow.

Phnom Kulen

There have been a lot of improvements to  Phnom Kulen in recent years; including new stairs to the Reclining Buddha and waterfalls.

Access is only possible in the mornings before 12 PM

The cost of $20 each for foreigners is unchanged
 
Beng Mealea
Has been tamed somewhat in 2008; visitor numbers are increasing due to the new tarmac road which goes from Damdek to Beng Mealea and on to Koh Ker.  Its taking around 1 hour from Siem Reap and 1 ½ hours via Banteay Srey which is gravel in parts.

The entrance pass of $5 is bought at a checkpoint 1 km from the village. There are new clean WCs with toilet paper.  There are places to eat and WCs  at the village to the South Entrance of the Temple.

The overgrown moat is now being cleared and deepened to improve the water supply to the villagers; a tangible benefit of tourism
The wooden walkways have been extended to cover the central area with new steps  constructed to allow easier access to higher parts of this ruin. There are restrictions to access of some parts after accidents involving tourists

Medical Facilities and First aid is very limited  so be warned. I am expecting a lot more restrictions on access once the work to improve the walkways are completed.

Climbing is at your own risk

I During the Rainy Season; Beng Mealea becomes a lot more hazardous. The guardians do offer some assistance; but the wet stones can be slippery so: caution, a head for heights and good footwear is essential if you go off the main walkway route.
 

Top of page

The Temple city of Koh Ker

Koh Ker is being developed as a major tourist destination and as a result  there have been some  changes here in 2007.  Clearance of vegetation and general tidying up has reduced the Jungle temple atmosphere somewhat. In 2008 the official figure for tourist visits were 2200 people; so with only a handful of tourists per day it is one of the best sites to see without crowds. 

The road passing through Svay Leu (Upper Mango) is being progressively tarmaced. The tarmac extends north of Svay Leu; but came to a halt in in the rainy season 2007 . Much of the remaining route is in good condition  (March 08) so it can take just over 2 hours from Siem Reap.
 
The Koh Ker Temples
Starting with the pyramid of Prasat Thom; Access to the top off the pyramid is now closed for safety reasons in March 2998 as the  stone and wooden steps were  becoming hazardous.  

The moat has been mostly  cleared; taking away the atmospheric vegetation; but giving nice views of the central Sanctuaries and the red brick tower of Prasat Krahom. The Prasat Thom Pyramid can now be seen from the SW corner of the moat.
 
Turning to the Central Sanctuaries; the once beautifully atmospheric area of bushes, grass and brick ruins, have been cleared and work is in progress (November  07) The brick towers with the scraps of ancient stucco to the west are untouched. The outer walls and the East Gopura have been stripped bare of all vegetation. The trees still remain in most areas and many still stand in the enclosures.

Many of the structures have and are being fenced in; which now means that visitors have a short  walk in to see most of the temples; which is no bad thing.
 
Koh Ker Accommodation and facilities
The village of Sray Yong  10 kms south is the main place to stay. The existing and very basic Koh Ker GH has 5 rooms with a few more in progress.  Sray Yong Is being  developed as a town: a new market has been built and a couple of new guest houses have opened.

Other options are home stay in the Koh Ker Village but bring bedding and mosquito  net.

There are more sheltered eating places at Prasat Thom near the principal gopuras. There is now a fence preventing vehicular access; so cars and vans have to park by the road.

The new toilet block near Prasat Thom  is a good facility with western style flush WCs  and toilet paper provided.

The  tourism development are going to have benefits for some  of the local population. certainly the improved road links will benefit everyone.  I am not convinced that it will be a major tourism destination, as there are so  many temples at Angkor to visit and to be honest Koh Ker is special because of its remoteness,  jungle atmosphere and lack of  tourists. 

Top of page

Banteay Chhmar
Access to this site is improving with the upgrading of Route 6 to Sissophon. By early December the road the route north from was repaired; from a horrible mess in Mid Nov; so the 70kms drive from Sissophon. is taking 1h 15mins.
There is work in progress to restore the eastern walls and plans to restore parts of the interior of the temple.
Admission remains $5 (the guards may ask for $10 but don’t pay that!) according to the visitors book there are approx 1 person visiting each day.  Banteay Chhmar is probably one of the best large temple sights  to really get away from the crowds.

Sambor Pre Kuk

This 7th Century temple city near Kompong Thom  has up to 200 temple sites in a jungle area. pre-dating Angkor Wat by 700 years.  The brick temples are  well worth a detour and an alternative to Koh Ker if you are heading from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.  Currently there are no regular admission fees; but use of the local guides and a donation is recommended. Temple fees are likely to be in place soon.

Preah Khan Kompong Svay

Otherwise known as Prasat Bakan; this vast site covering 4 times the area of Angkor Wat is in a remote area which is hard (and expensive) to get to.  It is the domain of 4Wd or trail bike. Deep sandy trails and a un-bridged rivers make it a challenge to get to in the dry season and impossible in the wet season. May to December. There are no admission fees, or tourist  facilities and the nearest village; Ta Seng has no guest house but a homestay can be arranged. Heavy rain can make roads impassable
 

Preah Vihear can be visited as a 2 day trip with an overnight stay on the mountain.  Roads were generally good to  Along Veng with a lot ot road works which can cause short delays.

to Preah Vihear is a mess of huge ruts which have made travel difficult but passable on a 4wd or trail bike.
Like many remote sites it is recommended to take advice on the state of the road before travel in the Rainy season. May to November .
The road up the Preah Vihear is still as steep as ever; however there is more concrete slab paving (some of the older stuff is breaking up already). We now drive up using 4wd as pickups are harder to get now.  There are still motos that will take you up. but I'd not recommend this on safety grounds.

Accommodation at the Environment hut at Preah Vihear is no longer available as the Authorities no longer allow anyone to stay at the top of the mountain.  There is a simple and comfortable guest house at in the market area on the hill at the base of the temple. (shared WC and Bucket shower) You can walk up the Temple easily from there.
 
Preah Vihear Temple has now been cleared of land mines so it is a lot safer place to visit. There are no major changes to the structure or renovations going on at present. V

Due to the tension between the Thai and Cambodians regarding the border dispute over land adjoining the temple; thousands of Cambodian and Thai troops are in the border areas. It is not possible or advisable to visit Preah Vihear or the border areas around Anlong Veng 

We are sure that this dispute will end in peaceful negotiation; but at the present time we will not be running tours or advise people to to go anywhere the Thai border areas until the matter is settled.

Battembang

Road links from Phnom Penh are good with regular bus and car services taking approx 5 hours. From Siem Reap it is taking around 4 hours by car or bus.  Route  6  via Sissophon is still  poor with continuing road works. The 65kn route 5 form Sissophon to Battembang is good. Boat services are poor with frequent overcrowding in the peak season .  Long journeys;  9 or  more hours are common from January when the water levels drop.

Bokor Mountain

in Mid January the 33 km access road was closed to enable the rebuild of this road. The closure will last up to a year while the major work is carried out. The Sokka Hotel group are rebuilding the old Casino so the old hill resort will be changed forever.

It is still possible to visit this site; but there is only access by minivans ($20 inc admission fee) while work on the road allows; you will have to check locally.

Top of page

End of update. 04/08/2008