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Bon Om Touk Water Festival
Close to the action in Siem Reap
This is one of the most spectacular events of its kind in South East Asia. There can be more than 400 colourful boats racing along the Tonle Sap river in Phnom Penh. There is plenty of energy, excitement and enthusiasm within the crowds and a carnival atmosphere along the streets . Up to 1 million Khmers assemble along the waterfront; so budget rooms are in short supply. We were in Phnom Penh November 2002 to see the festival. We travelled down the Tonle Sap from Siem Reap to arrive the day before the racing started. Along the way we saw many boat crews with their long boats and rafts lashed together into small floating villages.
In subsequent years we have seen the event in Siem Reap.
Pulling away
Dragon boats en route to Phnom Penh
The boats are long and spectacularly painted. Some were over 100ft (30m) with as many as 80 rowers. They do not row in the Western style; the oarsmen usually face forward and many stand up with their oars lashed to posts. The Rowers are usually dressed in colourful T shirts and shorts bearing the logos of their sponsors. Often a costumed lady is at the prow to add glamour to the event.
The boats race in pairs in the middle of the river. One can hear clearly hear the beating of drums and chanting of the crew as they pass. The scenes at the river edge are the most photogenic with the constant practicing; warming up of the entrants and return of the exhausted crews. The racing cannot easily be followed as there is little information in English. We found it a very spectacular backdrop to our visit here and returned again and again during the weekend.
A very long boat taken with wide angle lens
In many ways the atmosphere among the local crowds and the circus of food and entertainment can be almost as exiting as the racing itself. The big bandstand at the end of the green boulevard of ST106 had Khmer pop bands and everywhere has a carnival atmosphere. The crowds can be amazing and although the streets are cleared of traffic, at the end of the day, Sissowath Quay is just a seething mass of humanity with lines of people with hands on shoulders snaking away from the waterfront. I unwittingly became a snake head as I moved back from the water. Two hands were on my shoulders; I looked back to see a line building behind me as I threaded my way to the street.
Towards the end of the event the spectators became more animated as their favourite crews went through to the final heats. The chanting of the crews were drowned out by the cheering crowds and any chance of getting to the water on Sissowath quay was almost zero. It is important here as in other similar festivals to look after ones bags. I witnessed one attempted pickpocket by a child on a Khmer adult.
The crowds are good natured none the less and I spent a while talking with a young local lad who tried to explain the rules and his life story. He offered to get me a moto back to the hotel for a good locals price as he lived near the Bayon where we were staying.
On the way he collected his 12 year old brother who joined us on the moto. The driver sat on the tank and three of us were perched on the seat of the aging Dailim 100cc bike.
We were soon back at the hotel where the stuffy doorman of the smart hotel just looked down his nose at this ‘rich’ tourist on the back of the moto.
Sunday afternoon was spent at the FCCC club this is a really splendid place to watch the racing. There is a stunning view from the terrace bar long the Tonle Sap and towards the Mekong. Well above the crowds we could see all the action. The action included the rather unfortunate crew of a boat which started taking on water and sank just before the finish line. The crew bravely rowed on as their boat gradually disappeared beneath the waves. Some were still in action as the rescue boats arrived and with the help of the victorious crew they were picked from the water.
The event ends with prize giving and a lot of speeches; in comprehensible to us westerners. There is a firework display and the illuminated royal barge with pictures of king and queen. The revelry continues well into the night with karaoke discos and fairground rides and the occasional traditional music band. One word for those who are wanting to see the sights of Phnom Penh; the Royal Palace is, and probably will be closed during the three day event. Other tourist sights like Tol Sleng and killing Fields were open and the markets are always interesting at this time.
The date for the 2007 Phnom Penh Water festival is 23rd to 24th November 07
The date for the 2007 festival in Siem Reap is 23rd to 24th November 07 The Siem Reap Festival finishes a day earlier.
Preparations for the racing by the old bridge Siem Reap
Teams Race in Pairs and Ladies teams do well
Siem Reap Has its own Water Festival in October/ November, on the same dates. It is a major event. attracting tens of thousands of Khmers for the Boat racing. The racing is held on the river close to Peace of Angkor Villa. Like Phnom Penh, the waterfront is transformed by night into a glittering display of illuminations with a spectacular firework display.
All images and text © Dave Perkes 2007 www.peaceofangkor.com
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